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Tory waxes lyrical about bonding and seam-sealing, windproofing and waterproofing, and indeed stealth functionality is everywhere—interior zip pockets, reflective piping, UPF fabrics.
The styles skew old-school, but the technology is state-of-the-art.
“She inspires her team without making a big song and dance about it,” says Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet.
“She just does it and delivers results.” On a recent Thursday morning in her offices on West Nineteenth Street—appointed in orange and brown lacquers, with the requisite smattering of gold leaf, Lucite, and mirror; a ginger jar here, an Indian print there—Tory is, as always, everywhere at once.
To those hoping to decipher Tory Burch through two decades of photographic tea leaves—her avian frame tucked into a meticulous evening gown, her narrow neck ringed in gems—or who feel they know her from the nostalgia-steeped, ladylike, just-bohemian-enough clothing line she helms, it may come as something of a surprise to learn that she is, at her core, a jock. It’s the end of a long day that began, as most do for Tory Burch, at a.m., and as she sinks into a plump sofa in the pea-green drawing room of her home in the Pierre hotel and squeezes a tiger-striped velvet cushion between her knees, she lobs the ball back at me. ”For Tory to admit to taking pleasure in winning would be to abandon the decorous reserve that is as essential to her character as the gold medallion is to her iconic Reva ballet flats.
“How do we make beautiful, evocative things that don’t cost a fortune?“I never want things be too vintage-y,” Tory says, “but imagine that perfect ski sweater that you see in a thrift shop but don’t buy because it’s too itchy or it’s all polyester.I thought, if we could make things superfunctional but still think about style and history, give them a beautiful feel in the hand, and maybe make them a bit preppy—that would be something different.”At the University of Pennsylvania, where she majored in art history, Tory’s friends liked to call her a “prock”: part prep, part jock. “Many of the things I see in her stores are reminiscent of the stuff she wore in college,” says Hayley Boesky, her roommate at Penn.But it’s a complete surprise to me that it’s become what it is.And being the face of the company is a superhard thing for me.